How to rig it

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If you’ve ever rigged a drop shot, it’s pretty simple. Simply leave a longer leader and instead of adding a drop shot weight at the bottom, tie on a shaky head instead. If you haven’t rigged a drop shot before, here’s how I do it.

I tie a Trilene knot by going through the point-side of the hook eye first and leave a long tag end. Then I take that tag end and run it back through the eye of the hook coming once again from the point-side of the eye of the hook. If you tie it this way and pull your line tight, you should be able to make the hook stand out perpendicular to the line.

To rig a drop shot, I just add a drop shot weight at the end of my tag line. To rig a shaky shot instead, I tie on a shaky head. The length of line between the drop shot hook and the shaky head varies trip to trip and sometimes even school to school. Use your electronics to figure out how far the fish are staging from one another and adjust it accordingly. I’ve done this with as little as 18 inches separating my baits and I could see using as much as 6 feet of line between baits. Just remember, you’ll only be able to reel in as far as the drop shot hook so if you have more than 6 feet between baits you’ll likely have a really hard time lipping a fish or getting it into the net if it bites the shaky head.

Line size, shaky head weight, drop shot hook style and bait selection can all vary. Personally, I like a 1/4-ounce shaky head even though that’s a good bit heavier than I’d go if I were using a drop shot weight. The reason being again, a shaky shot rig isn’t as effective at dropping vertically. So the heavier weight helps get the bait on down to the bottom a little closer to the target than a lighter shaky head would.

As for bait selection, I suggest mixing it up. Sometimes I’ll go with different-colored worms from one hook to the other and sometimes with different style baits entirely with something like a Roboworm on the top hook and a craw-imitation bait on the shaky head.